How to safely complete a pre-trip inspection as a truck driver

Estimated reading time: 7 minutes

As a truck driver, one of the most important things you will do is perform pre-trip inspections before hitting the road. CDL pre-trip inspections take as long as a driver needs to ensure their tractor and trailer are in good working condition.

If you are new to truck driving, or just need a refresher, we have provided the ultimate guide on how to do a pre-trip inspection.

How to set up for a pre-trip inspection

The most important rule to completing a pre-trip inspection is to do it safely. Prepare your truck for a safe and thorough pre-trip by taking the following steps:

• Set the brakes.
• Make sure the transmission is in “N” (first gear for manual).
• Turn your four-ways on.
• Activate your brake lights.
• Turn on the headlights.
• Turn the truck off and remove the key from the ignition.
• Exit the truck cab.
• Open the hood and look for anything loose, leaking or broken.

CDL pre-trip inspection checklist

1. Start on the passenger side engine and check:

• Air filter housing: Secured mounting, cover in place.
• Windshield washer fluid reservoir: No leaks, proper fluid level.
• Turbo charger: No oil or exhaust leaks.
• Engine air duct work: No cuts, secured clamps.
• Alternator: Secured mounting, no broken or loose wire.
• Accessory drive belt: Not cracked or frayed.
• Air conditioner compressor: Secured mounting.

2. Review all five front brake components:

• Brake drum: No cracks.
• Brake lining: No cracks or damage.
• Inner oil seal (not visible): Check for leaks.
  • Look for oil running down brake drum or tire.
• Slack adjuster: Proper angle to the brake chamber, clevis and cotter pin intact.
• Brake air line: No bulges or cuts, fitting tight.
• Brake chamber: Secured mounting bolts, secured band clamp.

3. Inspect the front wheels:

• Tires: ABCs (abrasions, bulges, cuts), pressure should be 110 PSI, tread depth must be 3/32 minimum, 2/32 DOT.
• Wheel: Not cracked or bent.
• Hub oil: Not leaking, at the proper level.
  • If it’s a sealed unit, you won't be able to check the oil level.
• Oil seal (outer): Not leaking.
• Valve cap: Secured and in place.
• Lug nuts: All in place, no streaks or shiny areas, all are tight.

4. Look over the driver side of the engine:

• Radiator brace: Free of cracks, all bolts are in place.
• Radiator: Secured mounting, leak-free.
• Water pump: No cracks, no leaks, secured mounting.
• Fuel water separator and filter: Not leaking, secured mounting.
• Pitman arm/drag link: Free of cracks, castle nut is secured with cotter pin.
• Steering gear box: Secured to frame, not leaking.
• Power steering reservoir: Secured mounting, no leaks, proper level.
• Dipstick: Oil at the right level, dipstick secured after your check.
• Steering shaft: Secured and not damaged.
• Fuel pump: No cracks, not loose or damaged.
• Engine air ducts: Secured clamps and no cuts in the ducts.
• Brake master cylinder: Correct fluid level, no leaks.
• Oil filler cap: Secured, no cracks.
• Engine coolant reservoir: No leaks, proper fluid level.

5. Examine the steer axle suspension:

• U-bolts: No cracks, no loose or missing nuts.
• Leaf spring: No cracks, not loose or shifting.
• Tie rod: Secured with castle nuts and cotter pins.
• Shock absorber: Secured mounting, not leaking oil.
• Axle: Not cracked

6. Walk along the side of the cab:

• Mirrors: Secured mounting, no broken glass.
  • Clean them as needed.
• Doors: No damage, glass not broken, secured hinges, opens and closes well.
• Lights and turn signals: Working, not cracked.
• Steps: Mounted, secured to skirting.
• Battery box: Secured mounting, cover is latched.
• DEF cap: Secured cap.
• Fuel cap/tank: Gasket and vent in place, cap is secured to the tank by the chain.
• Side skirting: No damage, secured panels.
• Side box: Secured, safety triangles present.
• Side of sleeper berth: No body damage.
• Sleeper berth window: No cracks.

7. Investigate the rear of the cab:

• Electrical cord: No bare wire, no corrosion, check the plug at the end of the cord.
• Air line: Not tangled or worn, rubber grommets not worn, fittings tight.
• Cab shock absorber: Secured mounting, no leaking oil.
• Cab air bag (bellows): Not ruptured, secured mounting.

8. Analyze the rear suspension:

• Spring mount: No cracks, secured mounting.
• Tires: ABCs (abrasions, bulges, cuts), pressure should be 110 PSI with a tread depth of 3/32 min, 2/32 DOT.
• Air bag (bellows): Fully inflated, secured mounting, no ruptures.
• Shock absorber: Secured mounting and free of oil leaks.

9. Survey the drive shaft and rear frame:

• Drive shaft: Not cracked.
• Universal joint: Not cracked, no missing bolts or shiny areas.
• Differential: Not leaking oil.
• Frame: Straight, no non-factory welds.

10. Check on the fifth wheel area:

• Pivot pin: Keeper pin and cotter key intact.
• Slider lock pins: Fully engaged.
• Release arm: Not bent and in good working order.
• Slider rail: No broken welds, no missing bolts.
• Slider stop blocks: No broken welds, no missing bolts.
• Fifth wheel platform: Well-greased, tilted down.

11. Review the front of the trailer:

• Top rail: No cracks or collision damage.
• Clearance lights: Not broken, working properly.
• Registration: Not missing, readable.
• Document box: In place and secured.
• Air line/glad hands: No bulges or cuts in air lines, rubber grommets intact and securely on the glad hands.
• Electric hook up: No broken pins, cover intact.
• PM sticker: Make sure it is current and legible.
• Height sticker: Legible and your height is legal for your route.
• Placard holder: Intact with no missing rivets.
• Tracking device: No cracks or collision damage.

12. Inspect the side of the trailer:

• Top rail: Not cracked, no collision damage.
• Clearance light: Operational.
• Marker light: Not cracked, no collision damage, no missing bolts.
• Landing gear: Legs straight, no broken welds in bracing, secured sand pads, clean with the handle in the cradle.
• Reflector tape: Clean.
• Placard holder: Intact with no missing rivets.
• Side panels: No holes or cuts, no missing rivets.

13. Examine the trailer suspension:

• Air line: No bulges or cuts, fittings are tight and not rubbing.
• Axle: Not bent or broken.
• Clevis pin and cotter key: Intact and secure.
• Slack adjuster: Proper angle, clevis pin and cotter pin intact.
• Brake linings: Minimum of ¼ thick, no cracks.
• Brake drum: No cracks.
• Tires: (ABCs), tread depth is 3/32 minimum and air pressure is 110 PSI.
• Spring: Not broken, hasn’t shifted.
• Spring mount: No broken welds.
• U bolts: Secured and not cracked.
• Torque rod: Secured mounting with bushings intact.
• Spring brake chamber: Secured mounting and band clamp.

14. Look over the rear of the trailer:

• Latches: Secured, not damaged.
• Placard holders: Intact with no missing rivets.
• Reflector tape: Clean.
• Lights: Fully operational with no broken or missing parts
• Splash guard: Secured brackets and guards.
• License plate: Secured mounting, clean, light is operational.
• Bumper: No damage, no broken welds.
• Door hooks: Secured, no missing bolts.
• Hinges: Not cracked, all bolts are in place on both sides.
• Door seals: No separation, no rubber tubing sticking out.

15. Analyze the gauges and the inside of the truck:

• Tachometer: 1000-1500.
• Water temp: 180-205 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Fuel: Matches visual when looking in tank.
• Def level: Maintain a minimum of one light bar.
• Oil pressure: 25-50 PSI.
• Speedometer: 0-60 MPH.
• Air pressure: 90-120 PSI.

When should Class A CDL pre-trip inspections be completed?

It is necessary for truck drivers to do a pre-trip inspection at any of the following times:

• At the start of each work day.
• Every 24 hours.
• Any time they pick up a new trailer.
• After all 10-hour breaks.

Please note this is an example of how to complete a CDL pre-trip inspection. It is important to remember the type of driver you are, the company you work for and the type of truck you drive can impact how you do a pre-trip. Be sure to consult your company guidelines or speak with your leader for more information about pre-tripping.